As soon as we landed in Kisumu, I felt as if we had arrived in Kenya. I don't know what it is about Nairobi, but I just can't relax there. Though I did cross the street all by myself and buy our modems so that we can have internet in a stick that will follow us anywhere. We only just now figured out how to use it... with the help of a very patient young woman here at the Safaricom shop in Kakamega.
The drive from Kisumu to Kakamega was so different from when we were last here. What a difference a smooth road makes. The scenery did not disappoint -- it is so lush. Everything is bright here -- bright green trees, tea, and sugar cane, bright red dirt, blue sky, brightly painted buildings (hot pink, purple, yellow, and orange -- like REALLY bright), bright white teeth. Gorgeous.
And the sounds... went to sleep last night under our mosquito net to the sounds of our askari's (security guard) blaring radio show (sounded like a preacher -- the preaching here is very in your face of the fire and brimstone variety) and the dogs barking. I had forgotten about the dogs. They haven't started yet tonight, but I do recall it was a nightly event. Funny, too, because you don't really ever see dogs. Another Kenyan mystery. The sounds of the morning are much more inviting... sweet song birds and distant mooing. Such a delight.
Terry started the day with a run. I've decided not to run on this trip. I may change my mind as I acclimatize, but I remember from last year that I could never quite catch my breath (dust and altitude), and I was never quite comfortable prancing by as people were toiling in the fields or in the market or whatever. So, it will be P90X and yoga for me -- Yoga for Fearlessness, Yoga for Insomnia, Non harming Ahimsa, and Yoga to Prevent Digestive Distress. I should be all set!
More sounds... constant hum of crickets from sunset to twilight. As for the changes... When we were last here, it seemed pretty bustling, with boda bodas (bicycle taxis) and people walking in droves to and from work or school or to the markets. There were a few motorcycles around, very few taxis, almost no private vehicles and of course matatus (little nissan van buses, usually decked out with blaring music, and named Blessed Angel or Gospel Praise or some other such holy name); which reminds me of the names of the shops we passed on our drive here... Nice and Lovely (I'm not sure what they sell, but there shop is very nice and lovely with bright pink paint), Blessed Tailoring, Graceful Butchery, etc. They are crazy about God and Jesus here.
One of the shows on tv on our way here was "The Groove Party," which seemed to be some kind of MTV countdown show. After each performance, the host would ask the performer, "What are you praising God for in 2011?". A young Massai rapper with blue jeans, a gansta hat, sunglasses, and a tribal blanket tied over one shoulder, answered, "All the whistles, all the dances, it is all Jesus."
Back to Kakamega... Now there is an actual mall! When we left in 2009 they had started construction on a Nakumat, which is kind of like a Walmart. We were sure it would be finished by now, but were not expecting anything like this. It is an actual mall, with a parking lot and two fountains in front and stores with doors and windows. There is a butcher shop with glass cases and COOLERS. The Safaricom store sells cell phones (Blackberry's and iPhones), lap tops, iPads. The Nakumat sells flat screen tvs. We are absolutely stunned. Who is buying flat screen tvs in Kakamega?
I asked Patricia, whom you will hear me mention a lot (Patricia and Rod are the founders of TEMBO), that very question, and what effect the mall is having on the locals. She said there is a new middle class that simply did not exist before. The University was recently upgraded and there are 10,000 new students in town; which means professors, staff for the grounds, bookshops, cafeteria, cleaners, etc. So, while the mall and new grocery stores are busy, the divide between the have and have-nots is getting wider and much more apparent.
We have shopped twice at Nakumat, but I am determined to find a vendor at the outdoor market or on our street that I can support. I think Nakumat may buy from some local suppliers, but I'm not sure. And I do wonder what will become of the farmers who rely on selling their produce to pay for their children's school fees. Inflation has been crazy. The price of food has tripled and schools are passing on the costs to parents.
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